Bar Stuzzichini

I always seem to be hungry right when restaurants close between lunch and dinner. So I'm delighted that the wonderful new Bar Stuzzichini stays open all day for in-between diners like me! Today, I stopped by right before 5, and the lunch menu was still being served. The old Komegashi space had been transformed with brass-accented leather banquettes and wooden, exposed-bulb chandeliers. I sat down at a round marble table and dipped some bread in the excellent, fruity olive oil.

The menu inspired me to order more than I usually would. I began with one of the stuzzichini (tapas), which were organized into fried items, cured meats, cheese, fish and vegetables. The waitress informed me that there was no more scamorze all brace (a firm, salty cheese served grilled), so I took her fried artichoke recommendation. What marvels these were: six crispy browned florets of artichoke, with salty fried petals as addictive as potato chips surrounding the succulent artichoke hearts. I squeezed lemon all over them.

Next came the bitter greens in anchovy dressing. This refreshing salad was something like a cheeseless Caesar, and it was so much better than the clumpy, overdressed mess one sometimes finds decorated with oversized shards of Parmesan. Assertive chicory leaves were dressed with a milder, creamy dressing that only needed a touch of anchovy.

Although there was a lovely-sounding orecchiette with fresh spring peas, a swordfish and a short ribs pizzaiola, I went for the tagliolini with lemon and pistachios. The portion was deceptively small; the nutty, creamy sauce with a slight crunch of pistachio was very rich (and delicious)!

For dessert, there were several appealing selections: an orange-scented olive oil cake, a chocolate hazelnut confection, gelato in brioche, affogato and my choice: cannoli. The three sugar-dusted tubes full of orange, espresso and classic creamy goodness had just the right amount of sweetness. I would have liked even more of the espresso flavor.

Bar Stuzzichini: 928 Broadway, (212) 780-5100.